Kwick Kleen Restoration SuppliesGeneral CategoryGeneral DiscussionRough feel from aresol cans
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Mark
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« on: July 26, 2010, 06:55:27 AM »

Hi Guys,
I have a problem that I been fighting for some time and I'm hoping someone can offer some advice. First let me explain what I do. I have a small furniture repair business where 99% of my work is done in the customer's home. To make the business model work (financially speaking) I schedule 6 appointments per day over a 300 mile radius. With that said, it is important that I complete each repair within approx. 1 hr.
My Problem: Many of the repairs I do are scratches on dining tables. If they too deep to remove with compounds (usually the case) I wet sand with 800, 1000, and 1200 wet/dry paper and wool lube as a lubricant. I can usually remove all scratches, after which I use mineral spirits to clean oils and residue. Then re-apply either satin or gloss clear nitrocellulose type lacquer (Mohawk). I spray a couple even coats approx. 6-8" from surface to reduce overspray.
After about 10 minutes, I attempt to even out the rough finish of the newly sprayed lacquer with a 1000 or 2000 abralon pad wrapped around a sanding block. I tried the same technique with 0000 steel wool, brown paper bag, waxing, but still have the rough feel as compared to the surrounding surface. I know this is an elementary issue and there is something that I am not doing correctly. I would be forever grateful if someone can offer some advise.

Thank you,
Mark
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DarrelK
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« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2010, 07:37:17 AM »

Mark, which Mohawk clears are you using or have tried?  Have you ever tried a no-blush or blender style spray after your last coat?
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Mark
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« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2010, 09:33:19 AM »

Hi Darrel,
I have tried several differant types of Mohawk aresol lacquers. The last type that I used was Ultra Flo Clear Lacquer. I have also used the Blenders and No-Blush products as a final coat, but still have the rough feel in the repaired area. I have used No-Blush Blender Flat as a sole finish to repaired areas. This works well to reduce sanding marks, but does not replace the sheen or add mush protection as a finish coat.

Thanks,
Mark
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DarrelK
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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2010, 08:41:53 PM »

Okay, so you're using decent products.  I went back and re-read this again and I'll just make a few suggestions to "try."  First, I think that your clear should be left to dry more than 10 minutes.  I mean, I know lacquers dry fast but you should be letting those areas "off gas" a little longer especially if you've applied a few coats at the same spraying.  Try more like 15 to 30 minutes.  Why?  Well, this should give you a "harder" and more stable coating to cut down.  Trying to use 1000 to 2000 grit paper to blend is just not enough to "level" the coating.  Your paper is just gliding over the tops of any dry spray and orange peel.  I'd drop at least down to 400 grit/wet, move up to 600 wet, then depending on what sheen your matching, go brown paper bag/wax, or for high sheens move on up to the 1000 to 2000 range combined with some compound/polish, etc.  If you've been staying away from those lower grit sandpapers because you are afraid of "breakthrough" get some old tops or cabinet doors and just practice.  I've leveled coatings down to 240 grit before to get over some poor refinishing and patch work. 
Like you, I too am constantly on the road doing this type of work in homes, offices, etc.  My big advantage though is that I still do production style finishing 1 day a week in my shop.  That has always seemed to help me to figure out how much I can push these coatings when it comes to sanding, polishing, etc.  Hope you can get it figured out,  I do know what it's like when you just can't get topcoats to blend in. Sad
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TIM INMAN
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« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2010, 10:53:01 AM »

DarrelK is the authority on this one:  Go with his advice!

My two-cents worth though is this:  If your aerosols are not flowing out smoothly enough, why not float a little blush eliminator over the top?  I do this in my shop all the time.  (I do not do much in-house work.)  Whenever I see a little overspray or orangepeel (REAL orangepeel, not fisheye!) I waft a little cloud of blush eliminator/retarder over the top and let it gently drift down to do its work. 

As lacquer dries, it shrinks a lot.  If you level and finish sand a 'green' or underdried lacquer, it will continue to shrink after you're gone.  This can cause call-backs because the final dried finish will look different than when you left.

I don't know about in-home jobs, but I always try to leave a little 'freebie' bottle of fine furniture wax - with instructions - when I send out a job.  When folks find a little flaw, they seem delighted to apply the wax and buff it out themselves.  This seems to make them much more tolerant of little flaws - and me!

Good luck,

Tim Inman
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DarrelK
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« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2010, 08:17:30 PM »

You hit the nail on the head there Tim, for most of us in-home touch-up guys.  We are always sanding coatings which are green and pushing things too fast.  It's one of the reasons I just plain started asking people for more business and giving some discounts here and there in the home.  The longer I can stay in a person's home I can go from project to project allowing more dry times for each item.  I also make use of any ceiling fans turned on low when I can and I make sure people have their home sealed up with the air cranked and their whole house system set to full on instead of just auto.  All those things contribute to faster dry times and a more "settled" finish before I sand.
I also usually tell people there can be some "texture" difference after a few days of drying and show them how (using their own waxes, cleaning materials, etc.) to buff up the area.   
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TIM INMAN
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« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2010, 09:01:47 AM »

Here's a grin for you:

I don't do much in-home touch up work, but I do go into homes to repair Grandfather clocks. Your comment about turning up the air made me think of this.

It seems like these clocks are almost always owned by really old retired people.  I suppose that since they are very expensive, you shouldn't expect young kids to have a $25,000 clock sitting around - or that they would be willing to pay somebody like me to come out and oil it.

Anyway, these old folks invariably put their clocks in a dark stuffy corner of the room.  Then, since they're old, they NEVER have the air turned up; but they always have the heat cranked! 

Now for the grin:  Picture me - built like an NFL defensive tackle - wedged in a corner behind an expensive clock in the dark trying to see the intricate workings.  Usually, I'm sweating like an offender in church, and the old couple is sitting in their recliners watching every move I make.  I even had one lady one time who invited her friends over for coffee so they could all watch me fix her clock.  They put up folding chairs in a semi-circle.  And it was hot in there with not a breath of air!

Hearing a clock's ticking is important to a clock repair person.  It's hard to hear a clock beat when the TV is on 60, and the folks are trying to tell me about their grandchildren all the while.  It is an artform!

Smile! I'm pulling for you.

Tim Inman
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